Due to our collective lack of jungle experience and desire not to walk too far, we decided on an area of secondary (less old trees, although smaller saplings and spiky things) jungle, preferring the crest of a hill which would offer less mosquitoes and a better breeze. After over an hour of thrashing around with only one parang between the two of us, a clearing had been made and we set about fashioning a bench, fire bed and erecting a tarp.
With everything looking ship-shape, the job of making our evening meal soon came about. Our Christmas meal was to consist of chicken stew, Christmas pudding and custard. Yum. Despite Brunei being a dry Muslim state, we both had a can of lager and stout each. Don't drink it all at once!
With a nicely sized spider looking on and in spite of a massive downpour culminating in the loudest clap of thunder ever, we both had a good time, trying our hand at making traps and a bamboo fire saw.
It certainly wasn't a normal Christmas, but it was one to remember. Made even more special by our hand-sized visitor. How nice.
Next it was on to Singapore, and time to see a good friend and his new wife!
After arriving in Singapore, it was comforting to see little had changed; Singapore always comforts me with its ruthless efficiency whilst it strives for perfection. It's like the Germany of the east; I'm rather fond of Germany.
With the flight on Royal Brunei Airways complete, always something of a time-warp with blessings for the flight and boiled sweets before landing, I had to clear customs. It turns out, given the shocked stares as my bag goes through the x-ray machine, which you a not supposed to bring into Singapore a three foot long ceremonial headhunting sword, even in your check-in baggage. Aah.
This prompted a 30 minute conversation between Mr Customs and me which went something like this:
"Why you bring sword to Singapore?"
"It was a gift from a tribe I stayed with in Borneo, see look at these photos, it is from this ceremony..."
"Sword is not allowed in Singapore!"
"I'm not going to use it; in fact I want to post it home."
"Hummn... [Phones ministry for weapons] They say sword is okay, but don't use it in public."
"[wanted to say, how stupid do you think I am?] Yes, okay, thank you very much."
I leave with a piece of paper and my sword. Phew, glad that one was over!
The next two days were spent with John and his lovely new wife, who made me feel very welcome. Possibly the most important thing I learnt was the existence of the "Milo dinosaur" and Milo Godzilla", a chocolate drink with extra chocolate powder, and extra chocolate powder and ice-cream, respectively. Easily Singapore's most important attractions.
The other event of note was the 5-1 trouncing, delivered by Liverpool to Newcastle in a football match we enjoyed with John's parents; John [and therefore I] supports Liverpool!
After saying my farewell, it was time to start an arduous journey to Bhutan which would take almost 48 hours...
Following a flight to Madras, then a connection to Calcutta, I had an overnight train to a boarder town, about 12 hours away. If anyone has ever been on an Indian train, you know how confusing the system is, with over 7 classes and a myriad of officials to negotiate. Unfortunately at the time of departure my ticket was still wait-listed, i.e. I didn't have a seat or bed. Still, I got on the train.
Choosing an area next to the stench ridden toilets at the end of a carriage, I sat and awaited an opportunity to exploit the legendary Indian corruption...
After twenty minutes my target was identified, the ticket collector smoking right next to the no smoking sign. Initial attempts were met with silly numbers (2000 rupees, or close to 35 pounds) so I sat back and waited, pretending to sleep. This annoyed him greatly, resulting in shouts of "You no sleep here."
After another 90 minutes, he was close on buckling, so with four officials now gathered around me, I asked his best price; no less than 500 rupees. Using my fake wallet which only had 400 rupees (about 8 pounds) I gave him the lot. Success! I had managed to achieve a berth in the highest class (2 AC) for under 1/4 of the official cost. Corruption works again!
After a further 5 hour drive, I met my two Bhutanese contacts, one driver and a guide. It was now time, without any break, to travel to the capital Thimpu, about six hours from the boarder town over a very rough road. We even got a land-slide on the way - it was nothing the resident JCB couldn't handle though!!
In the next episode, we have guest stars of a Bhuddist monk at 4500 metres, most of the Bhutanese Government, ministers and all and an archery competition... I'll leave you with a little taster...
(Yes, that has no windows, and is being driven down a 3500m slope, by two guys, at about -10 degrees, with a heavy covering of snow on the roads.....)
1 comment:
Merry Christmas & happy new year Hadyn. Nice hat by the way! Del Boy would have been proud with that bit of wheelin' and dealin' on the train. Keep the posts coming!
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