Agra and out

Well, like any good journey my time in India draws to a close.

Before summarising the highs and lows of this great country in what little time I have had to dip my toes in, I shall briefly outline the last few days.

From where I left you in Kolhapur, Rakesh and I continued our adventure with our hosts. Many of the highlights didn't come from the normal tourist attractions we saw (such as the 55 foot high Ganesh statue and local fort), but instead such gems as the brief conversation had with a local waiter when I arrived, culminating in the usual request for photos and this time even a free desert (the English quota it seems)!!

Both Rakesh and I agreed that we should leave a small gift to our hosts as a token of our appreciation, so we went into the local markets and purchased a cricket bat and balls, and two dresses for the girls.

It was strange, as although when giving the gifts there was little expression on the faces of the children, the warm fuzzy feeling certainly arrived when later that day we were asked to attend the first cricket match. The usual plank of wood with splinters was cast aside, replaced in pride of place by the shiny cricket bat. That was the best 5 pounds I've spent in a long time, and hopefully will continue to bring joy for significantly longer than pi$$ing it up against a wall on a Friday night.

That evening every item of my bag was pulled out and shown to our hosts to satisfy their curiosity - it turns out that the best toy for a child of three is a karabiner (climbing clip thing, used to clip my bag to trees, keeping it off any wet ground). Whilst 10 year olds are only satisfied by endless photos, or using the draw function on my PDA.

We then visited a local house of our rickshaw driver, where we were treated to another fantastically warm welcome, a sad realisation that the families value short term gain (i.e. go out and work, giving up school) over longer term ways to work themselves out of poverty. Then when the camera was pulled out of the bag, half of the elders of the room ran out, it turns out they wanted to change into their best clothes for any photos!!

After Kolhapur and a very warm departure from our hosts, Rakesh returned to Mumbai, whilst I spent a day with Prasad and Shrikant in Pune (feeling rather ill again). Both times I've been ill, it's been from "home" cooking. Both times it's been stuff I'm unsure about, but if they are feeding their children the same food, how can you say "no"? It wasn't as bad as before, but I was not "farting with confidence" for a good 48 hours.

Prasad's house was great. Even unfinished it was really, really nice. To play my diplomatic part, it was exactly as good as Rakesh's house (which is also really nice) no better, no worse. Factually, Rakesh's house is far cleaner and doesn't smell of paint, whilst Prasad's is certainly larger.

After the brief stop in Pune it was off again to Mumbai.

In Mumbai (which isn't as dangerous as our government would make you think, and pseudo security has been stepped up, and may even involve searching people who beep at the detector now!!) we took a trip to the local caves where we were victims of the first theft.

A monkey stole Rakesh's crisps. Yes, a monkey. Thieving scumbag, and it had small balls.

After this we then took what shall now be called the hell-ride to our white-water rafting venue. Earlier in the trip we had the hell-bus, which was cramped and bumpy. This was the hell-car. 2.4 litres of pure power at the hands of an untamed maniac.

If we had jumped into the back of any car and told them we had to be in Mumbai as fast as possible or else the world would end, they would probably drive slower and more safely. This guy was insane - even Rakesh was pooping himself and I got so scared I actually thought it was funny and began to look forward to the times he would pull out, see the bus coming in the lane, but go anyway.

Unfortunately this meant that by the time we went rafting, it was the tamest experience ever, graded between 3+ and 5+ (the day we went the dam only opened one gate, so it was a 3+, the highest experienced in the UK, but still rather tame) the water was good. Compared to the hell ride though, it had nothing. Put it this way, our dude did a 3.5 hour journey in 2.5 hours - and spent most of it in the oncoming lane, some of it off the road and all of it going too fast o (i.e. 70-80 mph) on windy pot-hole roads and dirt tracks.

Following a totally awful movie (Max Payne - good game, shoddy movie, about 2.0 on the 1-10 ratings) it was time for me to move on to Delhi and say goodbye to Rakesh.

Apart from the scam-artists which annoyed me a little when I arrived after the 18 hour journey (but only got 5 rupees from me tired pocket - about 6p) it's been good. Shopping has been abundant and the Taj Mehal beckons.

With the Taj tomorrow and then Borneo after that, it only leaves me to summarise India (all scores out of 10)

-----------------------------SUMMARY--------------------------

Adventure: 6 - apart from the camel trek, white-water rafting and staying in a mud-hut, it's been pretty "normal" holiday wise, very much easing me into travel

People: 10 - They have been excellent, every-where I've gone I've been greeted warmly and with open smiles, the villages and off the tourist track has been especially good.

Hassle: 2 - I'll be honest, the endless hassle of "where are you going" and "what is your name" which always end in one thing - a request for money or a use of their services has almost worn me down. Begging has been less of a problem than I thought, but still a pain in the a$$.

History/culture: 8 - Both history and culture have been excellent, but the tourist sights are often in dis-repair or littered with rubbish or graffiti. They aren't making the most of what they have. The history and culture is a 10, but it's being let down by poor presentation. Hopefully the Taj won't disappoint.

Food Taste: 8 – Too hot at times, but often very nice to taste

Hygene: 1 – The food has made me ill for almost 10% of my holiday and I have a cast-iron stomach and will eat anything. The Indian cleanliness standards are shockingly bad.

Safety: 10 - I've never felt unsafe, and apart from one monkey-based theft, haven't had any issues so far!

Food Variety: 5 – Outside of the major centres, and the richer part of those centres, food is limited to Indian. Yes, you can often get both south and north Indian, and there’s probably enough Indian dishes to eat a new one each day of the year, but it’s hardly the choice we have in the UK or the USA. When you get “Italian” or “Chinese” it’s almost unrecognisable in it’s Indian version.

Cost: 9 – It’s very cheap.

Value for money: 10 – Wherever you go, whatever you do, it’s cheap and most of the time darn good fun too.

Would I come again? Yes

Recommended to? Anyone who can take the dirt and doesn’t mind a few days of illness to see some truly marvellous people.

Highlights: Living in a hut in Kolhapur, Camel trek in Bikiner, the deserted 2nd largest wall in Rajesthan

Lowtimes: Sickness, alone, for 36 hours in Bikiner.

Overall: 8 – India has been great, without the illnesses that have thrown me a little sideways, it would have certainly been higher. As mentioned though, 10% of my time here I’ve been ill in some degree, and that makes this score pretty much out of 9. The other missing point is due to the level of dirt, grime and hassle, but if you can put up with that (which is easier when with a local) then it’s a fantastic place to visit.

Thanks Prasad, Shrikant and Rakesh for making the first stage of my trip really fantastic - I wouldn't have enjoyed myself half as much without you all, your friends and relatives! You've done India proud.

Goa Calling

After a wonderfully relaxed time in Mumbai, checking out the sights and eating some wonderful meals with Rakesh's family, Rakesh and I headed off towards Goa on yet another arduous bus journey.

What felt like a few million aches later, both Rakesh and I emerged, wiping the sleep from our eyes to be welcomed by the madding crowds of tourists in Goa. Darn.

First a bit of a history lesson. Whilst much of India was invaded by the British way back when, Goa managed to have the unfortunate joy of being invaded by the Portuguese. Being rather laid back, they stopped there and failed to invade much else. I blame too much rum. However, it did mean that Goa was independent from India until the 1960's. So it consequently has a really bad road structure and a very laid back way of life. Correction, it did, until the droves of package tourists from England arrived. It's now like Tenerrife. Joy.

After escaping the madding crowds of tourists on a bike ride to a remote waterfall, we did find some semblance of interest outside of the hippy nonsense which had been thrown in our face all along the beaches and roads. Here we took a 40 minute jeep ride into their semi-dry jungle, complete with river crossings and ruts in the road which make weight-watchers members feel small and insignificant.

After a brief walk, we reached the waterfall, which was pretty impressive and even encouraged me to get my spangly legs out and have a swim/controlled drown.

From Goa, and with news of the blasts in Mumbai fresh in the news, we headed north to a small city of Kolhapur where we were to meet a lady who undertakes government projects in remote villages, staying with her and her family.

I wanted remote, and I think I got it. Basic was the name of the day. No running water, the same "power sharing" power cuts experienced in the other slum town. Front door made of a sheet of tin, about waist high. Walls made of scrap metal/wood/cow-dung. Roof of corrugated tin/straw. Wildlife, more that present.

In true estate agent speak, I shall now describe the room. Airy (it was the store-room and didn't have any windows), with a view of the stars (holes in the ceiling), atmospheric (noisy), connected with nature (counted two rats, one mouse, millions of roaches, millions of mozzies and a strange tick-like creature in the first night. The rat was first mistaken for a small dog), firm foundations (concrete/mud floor, which I was sleeping on), friendly family (very friendly, and like most Indian's who have nothing, they were far too generous.)

We're going to have to cut this short, as I've just been told "now closing time" at 21:41 at night - strange time, but they must have had enough of me!

Photos to follow and more stories too!